The Rugby Socks, Free Pattern

Until now, I had this preconceived idea that hand-knit socks were reserved for indoor use. Indeed, I always feared damaging them, with friction against shoes leading to pilling or, worse, holes. I also worried that the material might be too warm, causing excessive sweating and turning the insides of my shoes into a pool!

However, it must be admitted that socks are still fantastic projects. They are quick to make, typically taking me a week to 10 days to complete a pair. They can also be easily customized, and when you see all the beautiful creations shared by knitters on social media, it's truly inspiring. Knitting a pair of socks is, in the end, a great way to make the most of leftover yarn from previous projects, even the smallest quantities.

So, I told myself that I really needed to break free from my barriers and create a pair of everyday socks, at least to try wearing handmade designs on a daily basis.

The pattern is worked in the round from top to bottom. It's an anatomical design, with the left foot and the right foot being different.

Material: approx. 360m/393.7 yards of Superfine quality yarn (main color) and about 10m/11 yards of Superfine quality yarn (contrasting color). For the model in the photo, I used alpaca.

Needles: double-pointed needles 2.5mm/US1 or equivalent to achieve the correct gauge.

Gauge 10X10 cm: 32 stitches X 39 rows.

Finished sizes: 

- 35/37 or US3.5/5.5 or UK2/4 –  21 cm foot length and 27 cm leg heightt;
- 38/40 or US6.5/8 or UK5/6.5 – 23 cm foot length and 28 cm leg height;
- 41/43 or US8/10 or UK7/9 - 26 cm foot length and 29 cm leg height.

The video tutorial for this pattern is available on YouTube. Feel free to visit my channel!

• Cast on 70/74/80 stitches with double-pointed needles 2.5mm/US1 and the main color. Place a marker at the beginning of the round.
• Knit 1cm/0.4in of 1/1 ribbing, approximately 4 rounds.
• Knit 3 rounds in 2/3 ribbing (2 stitches knit, 3 stitches purl), and increase 1 purl stitch at the end of the round for size 38/40 only (75m).
• Switch to the contrasting color and knit 3 rounds in jersey stitch. Tip: To avoid a stair-step effect between color changes, slip the last knitted stitch onto the right needle, pick up a stitch between the last and first stitch of the row below, retrieve the right stitch, and knit it together with the picked-up stitch.
• Switch back to the main color and knit one round in jersey stitch.
• Resume 2/3 ribbing for 3 rounds.
• Switch to the contrasting color and knit 3 rounds in jersey stitch. Cut the contrasting yarn.
• Switch back to the main color and knit one round in jersey stitch.
• Resume 2/3 ribbing until the leg measures 8cm/3.1in.
• Decrease one purl stitch by knitting two purl stitches together in each pattern. Transition to 2/2 ribbing. There are now 56/60/64 stitches.
• Continue until reaching a total height of 13/14/15cm or 5.1/5.5/5.9 in.
• Place a second marker in addition to the starting marker to separate the round into two equal parts: 28/30/32 stitches.
• Continue knitting the first part of the round in 2/2 ribbing but now knit the second part (the heel) in stockinette stitch. Continue like this for 9 rounds.
• On the 10th round, knit together the 1st and 2nd stitches after the 1st marker and the penultimate and last stitches before the 2nd marker (-2 stitches). There are now 28/30/32 stitches for the top of the foot and 26/28/30 stitches for the heel.
  15. Put the 28/30/32 stitches from the top of the foot on a needle, a stitch holder, or a yarn. 
• Continue by only knitting the stitches of the heel back and forth in stockinette stitch.
• Stop when the heel band measures 6/6/6.5cm or 2.4/2.4/2.6in.
• Place a marker in the strand between the two center stitches of the heel, after 14/15/16 stitches.
• Perform short rows as follows:
  •  Knit until 7/7/8 stitches before the end of the row, slip a stitch as if to knit, knit the next stitch, then pass the unknitted stitch over the second one. Turn.
  • Knit until 7/7/8 stitches before the end of the row, slip a stitch as if to purl, purl the next stitch, then pass the unknitted stitch over the second one. Turn.
  • Knit until 6/6/7 stitches before the end of the row, slip a stitch as if to knit, knit the next stitch, then pass the unknitted stitch over the second one. Turn.
  • Knit until 6/6/7 stitches before the end of the row, slip a stitch as if to purl, purl the next stitch, then pass the unknitted stitch over the second one. Turn.
  • Continue like this until there are no more stitches waiting on the left needle on each side.
• Continue the heel on the right side by knitting all the stitches in stockinette stitch, pick up 15/15/17 stitches on the side of the foot (about 1 stitch in 2 or 2 stitches in 3 depending on the number of heel rows), knit the stitches from the top of the foot, pick up 15/15/17 stitches on the side of the foot. There is a total of 72/76/82 stitches distributed over the 4 needles.
• Move the starting marker to the center of the heel. The other three markers remain in place.
• Continue the work in rounds, beginning to knit the heel in stockinette stitch. Decrease 1 stitch before the first side marker by knitting two stitches together. Knit the top in 2/2 ribbing. Decrease 1 stitch after the second side marker by knitting two stitches together through the back loop. 
• Repeat decreases for 4 consecutive rounds. There are now 64/68/74 stitches.
• Do one round without decreases, then repeat them every 2 rounds 6 times (52 stitches)/6 times (56 stitches)/7 times (60 stitches).
• Continue knitting the bottom in stockinette stitch and the top in 2/2 ribbing until the foot measures 17/18/19cm or 6.7/7.1/7.5in from the marker in the heel.
• Switch to the contrasting color and knit 3 rounds in stockinette stitch. Cut the yarn.
• Switch back to the main color and knit one row in stockinette stitch. Make sure to reposition the side markers equally.
• Start toe decreases 4 stitches before the first marker: knit 3 stitches together knitwise and one purl stitch, then just after the first marker: knit one purl stitch, slip a stitch, knit 2 stitches together knitwise, and pass the slipped stitch over. Then, knit a regular row in stockinette stitch. Repeat this part starting from the second marker for the other sock. 
• Repeat [ ] 4 times / 7 times / 9 times. There are now 36/28/24 stitches.
• Move the starting marker to the middle of the bottom. Now decrease one stitch before and after each marker. [Three stitches before the first marker: knit two stitches together knitwise and one purl stitch. After the first marker: knit one purl stitch, slip a stitch, knit one stitch, and pass the slipped stitch over. Three stitches before the second marker: knit two stitches together knitwise and one purl stitch. After the second marker: knit one purl stitch, slip a stitch, knit one stitch, and pass the slipped stitch over.]
• Repeat from [ ] 7 times / 5 times / 4 times. There are 8 stitches remaining.
• Cut the yarn and insert it into the remaining stitches. Tighten well and weave in the loose end. 
• Weave in the ends of both colors and block.

WARNING: These are anatomical socks that adapt to the shape of the foot. To make the second sock, perform the initial toe decreases starting from the second marker for the other foot. 

And there you have it, a great pair of basic socks, very easy to customize to your liking!

Don’t forget to tag me on Instagram, Facebook or Tiktok  #terrifiknits and #RugbySocks or #ChaussettesRugby once you're done or add this project to your Ravelry list ! Can't wait to discover your version !