The Inspiration
When it comes to socks, I usually gravitate towards black or white, low-cut, basic, and durable models easily found in stores. In fact, most of the time, I wear high-heeled shoes. Consequently, I only have the opportunity to wear socks inside boots or ankle boots or with sneakers. In both cases, they are often hidden.
As a result, due to lack of use, I rarely knit my own socks for everyday wear. The few models I have knitted in the past were always for indoor use.
After all these years, I felt the urge to step out of my comfort zone and try wearing fancy socks. So, I set out in search of a pattern that I could wear as well with a pair of sneakers as with derbies, for example. After some research, the choice was evident: I was going to try creating a pattern for ruffled socks. This ultra-trendy model has the advantage of being timeless and super cute.
I am going to present to you here my version of ruffled socks available in sizes 35 to 43. I designed them anatomically so that the left sock is distinct from the right to adapt to the anatomy of your foot.
Alright, let's get started!
The Pattern
The pattern is worked in the round from top to bottom. It includes a hem that extends into a ruffle.
Material: Approximately 300m/118 yards of cashmere. As a substitute, I recommend choosing a flexible material such as alpaca or merino.
Needles: Double-pointed needles 2/US0 and 2.5mm/US1 or equivalent to achieve the correct gauge.
Gauge 10X10 cm: 29 stitches X 36 rows.
Finished Sizes:
- 35/37 or US3.5/5.5 or UK2/4 – 21 cm/8.3in foot length and 15 cm/5.9in leg height;
- 38/40 or US6.5/8 or UK5/6.5 – 23 cm/9in foot length and 15 cm/5.9in leg height;
- 41/43 or US8/10 or UK7/9 - 26 cm/10.2in foot length and 15 cm/5.9in leg height.
The Instructions
- Cast on 120/128/140 stitches with 2mm/US0 double-pointed needles.
- Purl 8 rounds .
- On the 9th round, purl all stitches two by two. This leaves you with 60/64/70 stitches.
- Purl 12 more rounds.
- Knit one round. Note: This is where the basque is folded outward. Continue knitting in stockinette stitch conventionally.
- Continue in stockinette stitch with 2.5mm/US1 needles. Distribute 6/6/8 decreases, approximately one decrease every 9 stitches. There are now 54/58/62 stitches.
- Knit 27 rounds in stockinette stitch.
- On the 28th round, approximately 8cm/3.1in from the needle change, keep the first 26/28/30 stitches on the needles (heel). Leave the last 28/30/32 stitches on hold (top of the foot). Knit the heel stitches back and forth in stockinette stitch for 18/20/24 rows, approximately 5/5.5/6cm or 2/2.2/2.4in. Place a marker.
- Shape the heel :
- Row 1, Right Side: Knit until there are 7/7/8 stitches remaining, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, turn.
- Row 2, Wrong Side: Knit until there are 7/7/8 stitches remaining, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, turn.
- Row 3, Right Side: Knit until there are 6/6/7 stitches remaining, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, turn.
- Row 4, Wrong Side: Knit until there are 6/6/7 stitches remaining, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, turn.
- Continue with 1 stitch less before each decrease until there are 14/14/16 stitches in total.
- After completing heel decreases, pick up 14/14/16 stitches on each side. Resume the 28/30/32 stitches put on hold, making sure to mark them before and after with a marker. This totals 68/72/80 stitches.
- Continue knitting in the round, decreasing on each side: knit 2 stitches together through the back loop before the 1st marker and knit 2 stitches together after the 2nd marker.
- Repeat 8/8/10 times in total, every other round. There are now 52/56/60 stitches.
- Knit until measuring 18/19/21 cm or 7.1/7.5/8.3 inches from the heel marker. Adjust the length if needed by knitting more or fewer rows, keeping in mind that at this stage, there's approximately 4/5/6 cm or 1.6/2/2.4 inches left before reaching the toe.
- Place two markers evenly spaced, covering 26/28/30 stitches each, to identify the top and bottom of the foot.
- Next, shape the toe. ATTENTION, these are "anatomical" patterns, meaning that only one side is decreased. There are no decreases on the side of the big toe to respect the shape of the foot. You will need to replicate these reductions starting from the left marker to create the other sock. Toe decreases:
- Decrease 2 stitches on each side of the right marker as follows: knit 3 stitches together, knit 1, slip the marker, knit 1, knit 3 stitches together through the back loop.
- Repeat these decreases 4/7/9 times in total every 2 rounds, then 6/3/2 times every round. There are now 12/16/16 stitches remaining.
- Knit the remaining stitches 2 by 2 on the right side. There are now 6/8/8 stitches left. Cut the yarn and, using a needle, thread it through the remaining stitches, tighten, and weave in the end.
- Replicate the same pattern for the other foot, including toe decreases, starting from the left marker this time.
- Fold the basques outward and sew them with an elastic thread at the row where the basque stitches were knitted 2 by 2.
And there you have it – a fantastic pair of cute, comfortable socks perfectly adapted to the shape of your feet!
Don’t forget to tag me on Instagram, Facebook or Tiktok #terrifiknits and #sweetthingsocks or #chaussettessweetthing once you're done or add this project to your Ravelry list ! Can't wait to discover your version !
What you'll need :
Knitting pattern: download the instructions by clicking on the button bellow
Sweet Thing Socks Terrifiknits (PDF, 539.67 KB)
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YArn used : Mongolian Cashmere, Grey (2902 Light Gray), Bauana Hygge (not recommended)
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